Dubrovnik

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Why Dubrovnik Rewards the Smart Budget Traveler I almost wrote off Dubrovnik before I ever landed. Every search result said the same thing: “one of Croatia’s most expensive cities,” “prices rivaling Santorini,” “go to Split instead if you’re on a budget.” And then I went in early June, paid €58 a night for a room with a sea view in Lapad, walked the full city walls at 8am before the cruise ships docked, and ate a plate of grilled fish at a harbor café for €14. The best budget hotels in Dubrovnik exist — they’re just not inside the old city walls. ...

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Dubrovnik, Without the Cruise-Ship Crush We made the classic mistake on our first morning in Dubrovnik: we strolled up to the City Walls at 11am in late July. So had four cruise ships’ worth of everyone else. We shuffled the ramparts shoulder-to-shoulder in 33°C heat, paid full price for the privilege, and barely saw the sea for the sun hats. The next day we were at the gate the minute it opened — empty walls, soft light, the whole Adriatic glittering below. Same wall. Completely different city. ...

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. The Best Time to Visit Croatia, in One Sentence We nearly didn’t go. Three days out, my wife was reading me a forum thread on her phone — “season’s basically over by September, half the ferries stop, you’ll be swimming in cold water” — and asking, gently, whether we’d booked a fortnight of shuttered konobas and empty harbours. We went anyway. And the afternoon we slipped off the back of a Hvar beach into water that turned out to be 25 C, warmer than the sea had been all summer, I did the math on the villa we’d booked for a third of the August rate. We’d timed it almost perfectly by accident, and I’ll tell you exactly where the trap is below. ...