Athens

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Athens, Without the Rookie Mistakes We landed in Athens at 2pm in late July, dropped our bags, and marched straight up to the Acropolis. By the time we reached the Parthenon the marble was throwing back heat like an oven, the queue snaked into full sun, and we spent more on water than on the tickets. A taverna owner that evening just laughed: “Tourists do this every summer. Go at eight in the morning, or at six in the evening. Never at noon, never in August.” The next morning we went at opening, had the Caryatids half to ourselves, and finally understood the city. ...

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Where to Stay in Athens on a Budget — and Why Most People Get It Wrong I nearly booked the wrong part of Athens entirely. It was early April, I had three nights in the city before a ferry to the islands, and every listicle was pointing me at Plaka — the old quarter, the postcard neighbourhood, the one draped in bougainvillea below the Acropolis. So I looked at the prices and quietly panicked. Then a friend who’d lived in Athens for a year told me to look one hill south, at a neighbourhood called Koukaki. Same view of the Parthenon, same fifteen-minute walk to the main sites, about €25 a night cheaper for the same quality of room. That one tip reshaped the whole trip. ...

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. The Best Time to Visit Greece, in One Sentence We had the August ferries to Santorini and Naxos half-booked when a friend who’d done the same trip the year before sent a blunt message: “It was 38 degrees, the caldera path was a wall of people, and our room cost a fortune.” We almost ignored her, because August is when the office empties out. Then I priced the identical island-hop in late September and watched it come back a third cheaper, with the sea supposedly at its warmest all year. We moved the trip, swam off a near-empty Naxos beach in bathwater-warm water, and lower down I’ll admit the one ferry date we still got wrong. ...

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Cheap Flights from Amsterdam to Athens, Starting at 29 EUR The booking screen said €34. I read it twice. It was a grey Tuesday last November, Lena and I were hunched over a laptop at our kitchen table in Amsterdam, and a Transavia seat to Athens cost less than the two pizzas we’d ordered to celebrate finding it. Then my finger hovered over “add checked bag” — and that one box would have nearly tripled the fare. I’ll come back to that, because it’s the mistake almost everyone makes. ...