Culture

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Osaka, and the Trip We Almost Spent in Kyoto We booked Kyoto for everything and Osaka for one night, “just the airport.” Then a friend who’d lived in Namba laughed at the itinerary: “You’ve got it backwards — sleep in Osaka, eat in Osaka, and take the train to Kyoto in the morning like everyone who actually lives here.” We flipped it on a whim. Best call of the trip. Osaka fed us better, cost less, stayed up later, and put Kyoto’s temples and Nara’s deer a 30-minute ride away. ...

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Paris, Without the Rookie Mistakes We booked our first Paris trip for the first week of August, because that was the week work let us go. A friend who’d lived in the 11th just shook her head: “Half my favourite bakeries will have the metal shutter down, and you’ll be queuing in the heat for everything.” She wasn’t wrong. We went anyway, learned the hard way, and the next time we came back in late September the whole city felt like a different, calmer place for less money. ...

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Porto, Without the Rookie Mistakes We landed at OPO on a bright September morning, hauled our bags toward the taxi rank, and a man waiting for the Metro just nodded at the purple-line sign and said, “Same place, a fraction of the price.” We took the train. Thirty minutes later we stepped out near the centre having spent the cost of a normal ticket — and the cab queue we’d nearly joined was still inching forward as we walked away. ...

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. A Provence Travel Guide for People Short on Time We almost skipped the lavender. The plan was a lazy week of café terraces in Aix-en-Provence and not much else, until a woman at the Tuesday market — handing me a wedge of tomme and pointing at a basket of dried purple stems — said we’d be mad to come this close and not drive up to Valensole. So we did, early, and pulled over on an empty road between two seas of lavender with the light still soft and not another car in sight. That detour became the trip. The mistake we nearly made is the one this Provence travel guide is built to stop you making. ...

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Rhodes, Beyond the Cruise-Ship Day Trip The first time we came to Rhodes we nearly made the classic mistake: book mid-July, base ourselves in a packed resort, and “do” the Old Town in the two hours before a beach afternoon. A friend who’d summered here for years talked us out of it. “Come in September,” she said, “stay where you can actually walk into the medieval town at night, and save Lindos for the morning before the buses arrive.” She was right on every count. ...

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Rome, Without the Rookie Mistakes The first time we did Rome we landed at Fiumicino in late July, sweated through a 40-minute queue at the Colosseum we hadn’t booked, and paid €19 for two sad plates of pasta on a square near the Pantheon. A Roman friend later put it bluntly: “You came in the worst month, queued for the one thing you should pre-book, and ate where the menu has photos.” She wasn’t wrong. We came back in early October, did it properly, and the city went from exhausting to easy. ...

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Rotorua, Where the Ground Breathes We almost skipped Rotorua. A friend warned us off it — “it smells like rotten eggs, you’ll hate it” — and for the first ten minutes after we parked, walking past a sidewalk vent puffing steam into the cold air, I thought she might be right. Then we watched the Pōhutu geyser fire a column of boiling water thirty metres into the sky, sat down that evening to a hāngī pulled steaming from the earth, and by the next morning I genuinely couldn’t smell the sulphur anymore. The nose adjusts. The wonder doesn’t. ...

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Santorini, Without the Sunset Scrum We almost ruined Santorini by doing the obvious thing: queuing shoulder-to-shoulder in Oia at 7pm with two thousand other phones, all pointed at the same horizon. Then a guesthouse owner in Imerovigli told us to just turn around. The same sun, the same glowing caldera, dropped behind the cliffs from her terrace — and there were six of us, not six hundred. That one tip changed the whole trip. ...

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Seville, Without the Rookie Mistakes We booked our first Seville trip for mid-July, because the flights were cheap and we didn’t think twice. By noon on day one we were flattened — 42°C, no shade in the Plaza de España, every local sensibly indoors while we wilted in a queue we could have skipped. A waiter took pity on us: “Come back in April,” he said, “and book your tickets online — you’re doing everything the hard way.” He was right. The spring trip that followed felt like a completely different, gentler city. ...

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Sicily, Without the Rookie Mistakes We landed in Catania in early August, convinced two weeks was wildly generous for one island. By day three we’d sat in beach traffic, paid peak rates for a so-so room, and watched the thermometer hit 38°C while we queued for a granita. A guy at the next café table just laughed: “You came in August? Come back in May and you’ll think it’s a different country.” He was right. The Sicily we went back for in late spring — warm sea, half-empty temples, easy parking — is the one this guide is built around. ...

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Sintra, Without the Coach-Crowd Crush We rolled into Sintra at noon on a July Saturday and made every mistake in the book. The Pena Palace queue snaked back through the gardens, the hill bus was packed solid, and by the time we reached the terraces the famous colours were swimming in heat haze and hundreds of selfie sticks. A guesthouse owner later put it plainly: “You came at the worst hour of the worst month. Come back in May and arrive at nine — it’s a different mountain.” ...

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a booking through these links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Split, Where the Palace Is the City We almost skipped Split. The plan was a quick overnight before catching a ferry to Hvar, because “it’s just the port town”, a friend said. We were wrong, and so was she. We checked into a guesthouse and only later realised our room was inside a 1,700-year-old Roman palace — our morning coffee came from a café wedged against an emperor’s wall, and the “Old Town” we kept getting lost in was Diocletian’s Palace itself, still lived in, still open to the sky. ...